Tomato

Solanum lycopersicum

By Rowan Plank · Published September 28, 2026

Ripe red tomatoes growing on a staked vine

Sun

Full sun (6–8+ hrs)

Water

1–2 in/week, deep and consistent

Spacing

18–24 in (determinate), 24–36 in (indeterminate)

Soil pH

6.2–6.8

Days to maturity

60–85 days after transplant

Hardiness zones

Grown as an annual in all zones; perennial in 10–11

When to plant: After last frost, once soil is 60°F+ and nights stay warm

Tomatoes need full sun, 1–2 in of water a week, and warm soil — wait until it's at least 60°F before planting. Space them 18–24 in apart for determinate types and 24–36 in for indeterminate types, and most varieties are ready 60–85 days after transplanting.

They're one of the most popular raised bed crops, and consistent care pays off with a long harvest.

When should you plant tomatoes?

After your last frost, once the soil has warmed to 60°F. Tomatoes are warm-season plants that grow best with days around 70–80°F and nights above 60°F; cold nights stall them and can keep flowers from setting fruit.

Bury transplants deep — tomatoes grow roots along any buried stem, which gives you a sturdier plant.

Determinate or indeterminate — which should you grow?

TypeGrowthHarvestSupportSpacing
Determinate ("bush")Stops at a set height, often 3–4 ftMost fruit ripens within a few weeksCage or short stake18–24 in
Indeterminate ("vining")Keeps growing until frostSteady harvest all seasonTall stake, cage, or trellis24–36 in

Stake or cage indeterminate varieties early, before they sprawl.

How often should you water tomatoes?

Aim for 1–2 in a week, delivered as deep, even soakings rather than frequent sprinkles. Swings between dry and soaked soil cause both cracked fruit and blossom end rot. A layer of mulch helps keep moisture even.

Water at the base

Watering the soil instead of the leaves cuts down on fungal diseases like early blight, which spread fastest on wet foliage.

What problems do tomatoes get?

  • Blossom end rot — a sunken, dark patch on the fruit bottom from uneven watering; water deeply and mulch.
  • Cracking fruit — usually a heavy watering or rain after a dry spell.
  • Blossom drop — flowers fall without setting fruit when nights go below 55°F or above 75°F.
  • Hornworms — large green caterpillars that strip leaves fast; hand-picking works in small gardens.

Use the Raised Bed Soil Calculator to figure out how much soil mix you need before planting.

Sources: Growing Tomatoes — UMN Extension, Blossom-end Rot of Tomatoes — Oregon State Extension.

Companion plants

Basil, Marigold, Carrots

FAQ

Why are the lower leaves on my tomato plant turning yellow?

Some yellowing on the oldest, lowest leaves is normal as the plant ages. If it moves up the plant quickly, check for uneven watering or a nitrogen shortage first.

What causes blossom end rot?

The dark, sunken patch on the bottom of the fruit comes from a lack of calcium in the developing fruit, and the usual trigger is uneven soil moisture — not a lack of calcium in the soil. Mulch and water deeply and evenly.

Why are my tomato flowers falling off without making fruit?

That's blossom drop, and temperature is the usual cause. Flowers tend to drop when nights fall below 55°F or stay above 75°F. It usually corrects itself when the weather evens out.